/ CAUCASUS (MOmTTAIKEERING)
USIBA
The south peak repulsed about twenty attempts made by many good climbers, such as Purtsheller, Merzbacher, Hacker, and W, Rickmers Richmers, In 1903 Rlclimers led an expedition which made their headquarters in Becho, The first attempt was made between the 19th and 22nd of July, and included Heinz von Picker, A. Schulze, Ricilmers, and Fraulein von Ficker. They bivouacked at an altitude of 4100 meters; then on the ascent of the final tower and, as I understand it, on its western face or ridge, Schulze slipped and fell twenty meters and hung unconscious at the end of the rope which was held by von Ficker, It ?as a very steep part of the climb, ishich made it very difficult for the party to get Schulze down off the mountain in safety. However, this was accomplished in seventeen hours. Four days later, on July 26, 1903, a second attempt was successful and the south summit was reached by Schulze, Dr. Helbling, Reichert, Schuster and Weber. The route of ascent was the same as had been explored on the previous attempt. On the descent, this party had to bivouac just below the summit wall.
On August 10, 1903, Pfann, Leuchs and Distel started for the traverse of Ushba, They ascended the mountain from the northeast, or Chatin-Tau, side. The first night they camped at an altitude of 2900 meters, and the second night at 4560 meters. On the third day they reached the summit of the north peak at 8:30 A.M. Then began the descent of the southern ridge or face of the north peak, and the traverse of the saddle connecting the north and the south peaks. This must have been a very difficult
